How to Treat Bedbugs in Furniture

How to Treat Bedbugs in Furniture

Bed bugs are the worst nightmare for many people. These tiny creatures can really make life unbearable if they find their way into your furniture. You have to get rid of bedbugs in furniture quickly before they multiply and spread throughout your house.

So, how do you get rid of bed bugs in your furniture? Laundering, bed bug traps, diatomaceous earth, couch encasement, and steamer are some of the ways to remove bedbugs from your furniture.

But for any of these methods to work, you have to follow the right steps. Here is a simple guide on how to get rid of bedbugs in your furniture.

Signs of Bedbugs in Your Furniture

Signs of bedbugs in your furniture are pretty straightforward. They never vary as homes with bedbug infestations always have the same signs. 


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The first thing you need to do is check underneath your couch cushions. Flip your couch and check underneath. Here are some of the signs of bedbug infestation in your furniture or home if you’re not sure of what to look for:

Bed Bug Eggs and Shells Easily Detectable

Bed Bug shells are not easily detectable because they look just like your regular furniture’s dust. However, it would be very hard to find them in plain sight when you have an infestation. So, the best way is to use a magnifying glass and check for bed bugs by focusing on nooks and corners where they are commonly discovered.

After that, look for easily detectable shells because they are translucent and milky white. For bedbug eggs, you can easily notice them because they’re slightly larger.

Bed Bug Feces and Blood Stains

By using a magnifying glass, you can easily spot feces and bloodstains. These are very tiny, so be careful when inspecting the area. You can determine whether it’s just dirt or something else through further observation by checking for specks of black spots surrounding the area. 

If there are many dark spots in the area, it’s likely that the specks are bloodstains or feces. Also, try to check for possible bed bug excrement by looking at the stains closely.

Dead Bed Bug

Another sign of bedbug infestation is that when you apply some treatment, you’ll see many of them dying from your treatment. They’ll be scattered all over your wooden frame. Dead bugs look exactly like the living bedbugs, but the only difference is that they’re not moving. When it comes to size-wise, they’re also the same and color-wise, which is the color of an apple seed.

Living Bed Bugs

The bedbugs that are still alive will be reddish-brown because they will feed on your blood. These bed bugs also tend to scurry away from you or hide in their cracks when you go near them, which would make it difficult for you to get a good look at them. They’ll only go when they’re hungry, but that’s rarely daytime. They’ll only go for a meal when you’re on the couch sleeping.

Ways of Getting Rid of Bed Bugs in Your Furniture

Start with Laundering Your Furniture

The easiest way to kill bed bugs in your furniture is to start by laundering them. Start with washing everything that’s machine washable. Learn how to clean your upholstery while employing hot water while doing so, or at least boiling them for an hour. 

Ways of Getting Rid of Bed Bugs in Your Furniture Start with Laundering Your Furniture
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Before laundering, put them in a large plastic bag or box, then wash them smoothly and quickly to avoid disturbing bed bugs, which can scatter them all over your house.

Use regular or high heat for at least one hour. After laundering, dry them up in your clothes dryer. Make sure you set up a high temperature to let it dry for half an hour and kill all the bed bugs. While it’s drying, clean and wipe down your frame, and look for holes in the structure.

Then, leave the frame to dry and put back the dried cushions and fabric to your furniture. If you have bulkier cushions, you can dry them at your local Laundromat at a high temperature.

Use Bed Bug Couch Cover

If your couch is a pull-out or a hideaway, you can invest in a bed bug cover. You can find them online and at some furniture stores. These covers are zip-closed and have tiny mesh holes to let air through while keeping the bugs out. They aren’t 100% effective, but they’re better than nothing.

Make sure you treat your frame and cushions before moving to this step and ensure all the bloodsuckers are dead. Then, use a steam cleaner along the edges of your couch. After that, use the vacuum cleaner to vacuum all the sides of your furniture. Now that your furniture is clean and dry, wrap it with a bed bug couch cover and zip it properly.

Use Bed Bug Traps to Catch Bed Bugs

If you don’t have enough time to buy a couch cover, you can always rely on bed bug traps. These are sticky pads that catch the bedbugs whenever they try to climb up your bed or sofa. The bugs get stuck to this pad and are unable to move again. You should put these under the couch and chair legs to make sure you keep your bed bug problem under control.

Use the Right Insecticide Spray

No matter what, using chemical sprays is never recommended. But in times like these, when there is no other option left, you might depend on these insecticides. Before spraying any of these chemicals on your furniture, make sure you are wearing the right clothing.

Wear gloves and the right kind of mask to block your nose from any chemicals that might be harmful to you. Keep the kids away from this place when you are spraying insecticides, especially around the house. Use natural bed bug sprays instead of these chemical treatments. 

The only disadvantage with natural spray is that it can only kill these pests when in direct contact and cannot provide continuous protection. You can also use dusting sprays instead of insecticides to dust your furniture legs.

Usage of Vacuum Cleaner

Vacuuming is not only good in eliminating bed bugs, but it also keeps the bed bug numbers down. It does this by picking up a lot of bedbugs and their eggs. So you should vacuum the dust, cobwebs, and other places where these bugs are most likely to hide.

Vacuuming also helps to control bed bugs by eliminating their signs such as their shed skins and fecal matter. Make sure you dispose of your vacuum bag in a tightly sealed plastic bag and throw it outside where none of the bed bugs can infiltrate your home again. This will drive away all the bugs from your home.

Kill the Bed Bugs with Steam

Steam cleaning is a great way to kill the bed bugs, and it also helps get rid of their eggs and nymphs, which can be difficult to remove manually. The steam kills them on contact, so you need not worry about any residual effect. But make sure that the steam does not reach such high levels that it might damage your furniture or belongings.

Use Diatomaceous Earth

If possible, place diatomaceous earth in cracks and crevices and behind bed frames and headboards. Do the same inside electronic devices such as radios and televisions. If your furniture has joints with gaps, go ahead and apply some diatomaceous earth in those joints as well. The dust prevents the bed bugs from reaching maturity and feeding on you.

You can also scatter this powder on the outside of your bed frame. Go for food-grade diatomaceous earth that is safe for you and your kids.

Invest in Non-Upholstered Furniture

Upholstered furniture is the most challenging because of the fabric that it is made of. Instead, get yourself some wooden furniture if you are serious about ridding your home of bedbugs for good. Make sure you treat upholstered furniture by applying pesticides and encasing the furniture in a large plastic bag. Heat treatment can also help you get rid of bed bugs from upholstered furniture. 

When using pesticides, be careful and follow all safety guidelines from the manufacturer. Their labels should have detailed information on how to use and protect yourself when using these products. On the other hand, non-upholstered furniture is the best bet because you don’t have to worry about bed bugs hiding in the fabric.

FAQs on Different Ways of Eliminating Bed Bugs in Your Furniture

How long do bed bugs live on furniture?

Bedbugs can live for over a year without feeding on blood. It’s important to remember that not all bedbugs will be seen in your mattress or bedding. Some may stay in cracks and crevices in the walls and behind your furniture.

How long will my bedroom remain bedbug-free after I spray?

It may take up to two weeks before the last of the bedbugs have been wiped out from your home. It’s advisable to carry out a repeat application after two weeks to get rid of everything.

Final Thought on Different Ways of Treating Bed Bugs in Your Furniture

As you can see, bedbugs can infest your furniture anytime, it doesn’t matter whether you’re house is clean or not. Another thing you must know is that getting rid of bed bugs is not as easy how to get rid of ants. But with a few tools and methods mentioned in this article, you can be sure of protecting your furniture from these annoying bugs and have a bed bug-free home.

 

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How to Apply Venetian Plaster

How to Apply Venetian Plaster

Are you looking for a new way to decorate your home? Venetian plaster is an ancient decorative technique that has been around for centuries. The process involves applying multiple layers of plaster onto walls and ceilings, which gives them a unique look.

You can use this type of decoration on any surface in your home or office, including furniture and floors. It goes well with many types of home decor, so there are no limitations in using Venetian plaster in your space. You can also blend lime plaster and marble dust to create this durable compound.

But for you to do all the above, you need to know how to apply Venetian plaster. Wondering how that goes? This article takes you through a comprehensive guide on how to apply Venetian plaster.

The Required Materials

Eye protectionPaintbrushRollerPaint trayWork glovesSteel trowel400 to 600 grit sandpaperDrop clothVenetian plasterRoller coverPainting primerTopcoat or paste waxUniversal colorantsDust mask

Instructions

Sharpen Your Skills

Before you start rolling on the Venetian plaster, it’s good to get an idea of what your skills are. Get a few practice pieces together for this project. Some sheets of drywall, plywood or fiberboard will work well. Spread some newspaper on the floor and cover up any objects you don’t want paint on.

Then, practice your plastering techniques on these pieces of wood. Use a paintbrush to get your Venetian plaster onto the piece, then smooth it out with a trowel or spatula. 

Choose a Plaster to Apply

Venetian plaster comes in two varieties, which include synthetic paint and lime-based plasters. The one you choose depends on your budget and your level of expertise. Lime-based plasters are considered true Venetians because, with time, they’ll turn to stones.

Lime-based plasters are more durable and retain their beauty longer, unlike the homemade finish of synthetic plasters. They’re also natural and are considered environmentally friendly rather than synthetics. Lime plaster is naturally resistant to molds and mildews.

On the other hand, synthetic Venetian plaster is inorganic, and its color is limited to the few offered by the manufacturer. It’s not easy to tint it either because it requires a special machine. Make sure you choose authentic Venetian plaster for your project.

Gather Your Tools and Lay Down Tarps

Make sure you protect the floor in your work area by laying down plastic sheets, so the dust from your work doesn’t get all over. You should also have buckets, a trowel, a grout sponge and a paint roller with a long handle at the ready. Do not use painter’s tape to protect molding or other walls that you’re not plastering.

Remember that plaster is not paint, so it can bond to the tape and crack or flake when you remove it, especially if you’re using lime-based plaster.

Prepare Your Room

Clear your room as much as possible and wipe down the entire surface with a clean rag saturated in soap solution. Take a few minutes to learn how to mop your floor before you proceed. Next, drape the tarp over the molding and lower part of the wall. 


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Of course, you apply Venetian plaster to most walls and ceilings, but the surface must be flat and smooth. If there are any holes and cracks, the plaster will seep through them when you apply Venetian plaster, so fill them in with spackling before applying the coating.

If you’re applying Venetian plaster to an existing wall that has paint on it, remove all of the old paint first, and then repair any holes or cracks with spackling and lightly sand the spackled area with 100-grit sandpaper. Wash off any dirt and grease, then prime the surfaces before applying the Venetian plaster. Avoid using steel trowel and drywall knives as they can leave lines and scratches in your plaster.

If you plan to plaster a bumpy surface, sand the entire surface or scrape it with a putty knife. If you’re using synthetic Venetian plaster, make sure you fill the holes and cracks with plaster as you go.

pply Primer to Discolorations

If your wall has been painted with flat paint, apply a primer that you can tint to the color of Venetian plaster. Spread the primer across the wall evenly and lightly using a paint roller. Depending on the walls you’re plastering, you may leave it dry before applying a second coat to get a smooth, even coat.

If you’re using lime-based plasters, you can apply the plaster directly to the stucco or masonry. You can also use a special primer called Fondo. Note that natural Venetian won’t adhere well to standard primers. Let it dry for 24 hours before applying the plaster.

pply the First Coat

Wear gloves while mixing Venetian plaster to achieve an even color. Load your trowel with the hot-dog compound of the hawk, then apply an eighth of an inch thick coat of joint compound over the surface. Use short, gently curved, x-shaped strokes at different angles.

Starting at the top left corner of your room, use a flexible steel trowel to apply a thin layer of plaster while holding your trowel at a 15 to 30-degree angle of the wall. Gradually work your way out toward the other end, covering approximately 8 feet at a time until you’ve covered all four walls. Try not to apply too much pressure on the trowel, or it may cause ridges in your wall.

Clean off your steel trowel from time to time to remove any hardened plaster that may be clinging to its surface. Leaving these on can cause damage to your wall, later on, so always take the time to remove them before applying more plaster onto the wall.

pply the Second Coat

If you’re using synthetic plaster, wait for at least four hours for the base coat to rest before applying a second coat. But for lime-based plaster, you can wait for as long as ten days between the coats. Start in the same way you applied the first coat. Hold your trowel or drywall knife at a 60 to 90-degree angle, then apply your plaster in long and short overlapping strokes to get an irregular look to the final finish.

Apply the Second Coat
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As you work your way across, check your progress to ensure that all the ridges and depressions have been filled. If you see some small areas with deep pits or ridges, use a thin trowel to smooth it out before the mixture becomes too dry.

If you’re not satisfied with the final result after applying a second coat, you can apply the third coat if you wish. If you’re using lime-based plaster, add a tinted topcoat of lime dust, linseed oil, soap, and coloring agent. Let your plaster dry for 24 hours before proceeding to the finish treatment.

Burnish the Surface

After the second coat has dried, you can burnish it with a dry sponge. This gives your surface a nice, polished sheen that’s slightly matte. To burnish synthetic plaster, use 400 to 600 grit paper if you wish. After that, clean the surface with a damp cloth.

You can also make the surface look more polished by rubbing the surface with your fingers. You can also rub the surface with a clean cloth or putty knife for an even more glossy sheen. When you’re finished, wipe down your wall using soap and water to get rid of dust particles.

Proceed to Waxing

Dip your clean trowel in tinted paste wax and spread it in light coats over your plaster. Let each coat dry before applying another one. It’s best to put on several thin coats instead of one thick layer. A good rule of thumb is to let the wax dry for ten minutes after each coat, then buff it with a clean rag or soft cloth until you get a nice shine that resembles a freshly waxed car.

You can also deepen the color variations by brushing pre-tinted glaze over the lighter areas of your surface using a paintbrush. Remember that real marble has a high contrast between light and dark tones. So, choose the darker tone if you’re looking to recreate the look of the marble. Check the pros and cons of marble flooring to learn more.

pply a Topcoat

This final step is optional. You can apply a topcoat to add durability, color and help seal the surface. For this step, it’s best to use 100% acrylic latex paint instead of wax if you want your finished product to last longer. Applying a topcoat is most recommended in rooms with high humidity, like bathrooms and kitchens. Otherwise, it’s optional though recommended for a nice finishing touch.

Apply a Topcoat
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You can also preserve the texture of your Venetian plaster finish by covering it with one coat of clear water-based sealant. And if you’re looking for polished marble, go for a sealant with a semi-gloss or satin finish. You can also choose a matte sealant if you want a limestone finish. 

FAQs on How to Apply Venetian Plaster

Can you Venetian plaster over drywall?

Yes, you can, but keep in mind that you’ll have to skim coat the whole thing. This means after applying a scratch coat, you’ll have to apply a ‘skim’ coat over it with drywall compound and sand smooth.

Can Venetian plaster be applied over paint?

Yes, as long as the paint is well cured. If it hasn’t been, the moisture in the air will create bubbles, and it won’t look good.

Final Thought on How to Apply Venetian Plaster

As you can see, applying Venetian plaster finish takes a little bit of skill and some extra work, but it’s well worth it in terms of quality. Make sure you keep your sealed Venetian plaster clean by dusting the surface weekly with an electrostatic duster.

 

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