Category: Kitchen Renovation

Birds are probably one of nature’s most beautiful creatures. These creatures have so much to offer when it comes to beauty. From their vibrant colors, soft melodies, comical actions, and straight-out impressive features, birds are pure eye candy. 

In this article, we have gathered pictures of nests and eggs from various bird species worldwide. Read on to enjoy every bit of the beauty that these nests and eggs hold within them.

House Finch Nest

House Finches build open cups nests of grass, twigs, and mud. The male builds the nest while the female oversees its construction. They often make their homes close to humans, which makes them popular around cities and suburbs alike. 

House finch eggs are 0.75 to 0.8 inches long with a very long pale blue color and small. There are also infrequent spots that are typically concentrated on the larger end of the egg.

merican Robin Nest

American robins build large nests in the crotch of a tree, under the overhang of roofs, or in man-made structures. Their nests are built with mud and lined inside with grasses, roots, and hair. American Robin eggs are 0.6 to 0.7 inches long and very pointed at the smaller end of the egg. 

Image credit: https://nestwatch.org/

The color can vary from white to pink, but they usually have brown speckles all over the entire egg. Each female American Robin lays between 3 to 7 eggs, but typically 4 or 5. When two females nest close together, they will oftentimes lay their eggs in one nest and then switch once all of the first female’s eggs have been laid. This is referred to as a dump nesting strategy.

Vermilion Flycatcher Nest and Eggs

The Vermilion Flycatcher will usually make their nests in the cavities of trees, and each female lays between 3 to 8 eggs that are white or cream-colored. They do not have any spots on them at all. With its eye-catching feature, the vermilion flycatcher is a favorite among birders, thanks to its brilliant plumage, and its nests and eggs are just lovely. 

Their cup is very sturdy; plus, it is often decorated with moss and lichen bits that serve as camouflage. The 0.75 inches long eggs are creamy-white with bold, thick blotches of lavender, brown, and grey.

nna’s Hummingbird Nest and Eggs

Anna’s Hummingbirds can be found in the United States, and they like to build their nests in small shrubs or trees. Each female lays between 2 to 4 white eggs with a glossy texture. Look for shiny egg spots on these pale eggs. Females tend to lay one egg per day until all of them are laid. 

Image credit: https://nestwatch.org/

These nests are often found in precarious locations on thin branches, twigs, on cliff ledges, and even astride wire. The nest is lined with feathers to gently cradle the white, symmetrical oval eggs.

Killdeer Nest

At first, you might think that this isn’t a nest at all. This simple nest is lined with pebbles and twigs and even without lining. Killdeers lay their eggs on open ground, which makes their nests highly vulnerable to predators. 

Its light-colored eggs have black and brown splotches, plus, the eggs are somewhat pointed, so they don’t roll easily on flat ground. However, parent birds will often feign injuries to distract predators away from their nest.

Black-Capped Chickadee Nest in a Tree Hole

The Black-Capped Chickadee nests in natural tree cavities and boxes. The female will line the cavity with grass, mosses, and hairs from mammals then she will lay her eggs on these lining materials. She’ll have anywhere from 4 to 7 eggs that are white or greenish. 

These are cavity-nesting birds and will use birdhouses, snags, and other natural nesting holes such as reusing woodpecker nesting sites. The nests are lined with feathers, moss, and animal fur. Their eggs are oval, 0.6 inches and are marked with brownish speckling.

Mallard Nests and Eggs

Mallard duck eggs are large, smooth with a matte or eggshell rather than glossy feel. They’re typically pale blue-green. Their nests are surrounded by tall grass, and while sitting in the nest, the female may line it with vegetation and twigs that she can pluck from around her and her feathers.

Image credit: https://images.fineartamerica.com/

It takes a lot of energy for females to lay eggs; it heavily depends on their mate for protection and food. After mating, males will remain potent for an extended period if the first brood fails and females need to mate again.  Eggs are incubated for about a month, but hatchlings can leave the nest in about half a day.

Song Thrush Nests and Eggs Images

Song Thrush eggs are pale blue with a few dark spots and a slight gloss. While females lay 2-4 eggs, males do not contribute to parental care or incubation of the eggs. The nests are usually constructed of mud with no grass lining. 

If you come across eggs in the nest, this can be an easy distinguishing factor of the song thrush versus other birds with similar eggs. They lay their eggs in early spring, and after they fledge, the parents feed their chicks until they reach maturity.

House Martin Eggs and Nests

The house martins lay plain white eggs. You can identify the nests of the house martin from a distance by their hanging upside-down shape. The birds build these cup-shaped nests out of mud pellets and grasses they find on the ground while using saliva as a building material to stick the pieces together. 

These summer nesters depend on flying insects for their diet and to feed their brood. The eggs are incubated for two weeks by both parents, and the chicks can take three weeks to leave the nest, though they remain in the colony for several more weeks.

In case there’s no food, the hatchlings can go into a state of torpor, where some of their metabolic processes are shut off to enable them to survive. The first hatchlings often help their parents to feed successive broods.

Pheasant Eggs and Nests

Pheasant eggs are the size of a small hen’s egg. They’re usually olive-brown eggs but can be brownish and have some bluish tones. Their nests are constructed on the ground by digging out a pit concealed among the tall grass. Like chickens and hatching, Pheasant chicks are already covered with feathers and ready to leave the nest.

Mute Swan Nest and Eggs

Mute Swans live in many parts of the world but prefer cold climates. Their nests are large heaps of reed or bulrush stems, usually built in a sheltered location on the water. They can lay from 3-7 eggs, and they only breed once a year. Their eggs are light grey or blue, though they can have brown and grey stains from marsh material.

Rock Pigeon Nests and Eggs

The cliff or rock nesting blue-grey pied color of a pigeon creates the perfect camouflage for their nests. They are also very protective against predators and will even attack creatures as big as humans to protect their babies. Rock pigeons usually breed twice a year, laying two eggs at a time in flimsy twig nests on cliff ledges or buildings. 

The pale blue-grey eggs can have brown and black spots from the mud used to make the nests. Unlike other birds, rock pigeons can breed at any time of the year as long as there are sufficient resources to raise their young ones.

Herring Gull Nest and Eggs

They are large white birds with a pale-yellow bill and long reddish-orange legs. If you come across an abandoned herring gull nest, you will find that there is no lining in it at all. The eggs are usually laid on a bare spot on the ground, and there may be scrape marks where the parent birds have tried to scratch loose material together. 

Image credit: https://cdn.download.ams.birds.cornell.edu/

They prefer to lay eggs on sheltered ground or roof locations with minimal nest construction. However, the parent birds will line the nest site with weeds, grass, and seaweed. Their eggs vary from grey to brown hue to a faint blue or green. They are also marked with brown, lavender, and black streaks or spots. And because they are not in a deep nest, they’re slightly pointed to minimize rolling.

House Sparrow Nests and Eggs

The House Sparrow, a non-native bird, lays its eggs in an untidy nest of straws and twigs on the ground, often mixed with paper litter. The nests are frequently seen in garden sheds or around human habitation. Their eggs are white with variable, often heavy speckling in browns and blue-greys.

The chicks only take two weeks to fledge, and their parents take further two weeks to care for them as they cannot feed for themselves for the first week out of the nest. The male sparrow is in charge of the chicks while the female prepares the next clutch of eggs.

FAQs on Photo Gallery of Wild Bird Nests and Eggs

How long does it take for a bird egg to hatch?

It can take 10 to 30 days, but the incubation period varies, depending on the bird species. Occasionally, it can take ten to thirty days. You should know how to identify baby birds once they hatch to know which nests they come from. 

How do you identify a wild bird egg?

One way is to use the table as a reference. It also helps to have a bird book with you or to enlarge the photo for better detail. The egg’s color, size, and shape should also guide you to identify if it’s a wild bird egg.

Final Thought on Photo Gallery of Wild Bird Nests and Eggs

As you can see, there’re so many types of wild bird nests and eggs, and it’s a privilege to get a glimpse of their lifestyle. With the photo gallery provided, you can easily enjoy the fruits of Mother Nature. Just make sure you learn how to take care of baby birds and don’t harm them in any way.

 

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Amaryllis are easy to grow indoors or outdoors, and they bloom for a long time. This means that you can have beautiful flowers all winter long. In this article, we will tell you everything you need to know about growing amaryllis. Let’s get right into it.

maryllis are easy to grow in many places

Amaryllis are easy to grow indoors and outdoors. They make great houseplants, but you can also plant them in flower beds or gardens outside.

Image Credit: http://gardeners.com

Plant the amaryllis bulb anywhere that gets plenty of sun. Amaryllis bulbs prefer soil that is not too moist or dry, so be sure to water them every day if possible. After the amaryllis has finished blooming, deadhead flowers before new buds open for more flower power.

Amaryllis is an easy way to have beautiful flowers all winter long.

They can be planted in pots, flower beds, or gardens.

This plant is perfect if you are looking forward to having some beautiful flowers this winter. When you see a new leaf that is larger than the others- cut off any leaves from above it so that they have room to grow. Once the plant has finished blooming, remove any dead flowers and replace them with fresh soil or potting mix. These plants need a lot of sunlight and should be watered every day if possible.

maryllis need a specific type of soil.

The soil used in planting Amaryllis must contain plenty of nutrients for the plant. You can buy a special potting mix from your local garden center or hardware store. Once planted, it’s easy to learn how to take care of amaryllis and how to make them bloom again after winter. The leaves all show up from one central point on the bulb, similar to other bulbs such as lilies and tulips.

You can use the same soil for this plant, but make sure to break it up with some sand. This will allow the roots to get plenty of air when watered or during rainstorms.

Other plants that are easy to grow in your garden

Planting amaryllis is a wonderful way of having beautiful flowers all winter long, but other plants can be grown in your garden too. Daisies, tulips, and impatiens are easy to grow and do not require much care at all. 

You should also make sure that they get plenty of sunlight during the day so they have enough energy for growth. This means you should place them near a window if possible. Growing plants such as cosmos and morning glories can be done in containers or flower beds outside. They are easy to grow and will provide you with lots of flowers during the summer. 

Growing amaryllis – FAQ

Can you plant amaryllis bulbs in winter?

Yes. Amaryllis grow best if they have enough light, so be sure to give them plenty of daylight each day. This means that you must keep them close to a window.

Do amaryllis need a lot of water?

Amaryllis plants need plenty of light and water to grow well. They should be watered daily when the weather is warm.

How do you plant an amaryllis bulb in soil?

If you want to learn how to plant it in pots or gardens outside, start by putting up a post in the middle of the area where you will place them. Fill this with some pebbles or rocks so that rainwater does not get into their pot. Next, mix some sand into your special potting mix before adding pieces of the soil around the post. Once this is done, carefully remove the bulbs from their packaging and add more soil around the roots. Make sure to water them then.

When planting amaryllis in pots or flower beds outside, you must leave a 5-inch space between each bulb. This will allow enough room for these plants to grow well. If you live in areas where the winters are cold, make sure they get plenty of sunlight during the day so they have enough energy for growth. You can do this by placing them near a window if possible.

How do you fertilize amaryllis?

Be sure to provide plenty of nutrients to your amaryllis plants if you want them to grow well. You can use special flower food or fertilizers for this. Once they are blooming, make sure that you water them thoroughly so that the flowers stay fresh and beautiful.

Image Credit: http://gardenerspath.com

How do you take care of an amaryllis plant indoors?

You should water your amaryllis carefully since it needs plenty of moisture all year long. If kept outside, the soil must be moist at all times, but not wet.

The best way to water the plant is to place it in a sink or bucket of water. You can use a sprayer to thoroughly wet the soil and avoid any unsightly stains. Make sure that you remove any excess water from its leaves immediately since this might cause rot or fungal growth.

If you keep your amaryllis indoors, make sure that there are at least five hours of sunlight each day for them to grow properly. They should be kept as close as possible to a window. This will ensure they have enough time to absorb as much light as possible during the winter months when there is less daylight available outside.

Final thoughts on growing amaryllis

In conclusion, amaryllis makes wonderful plants to have indoors or outdoors. These plants are slightly difficult to grow since they require several hours of sunlight each day, but it is certainly possible with the right care.

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Keeping indoor plants can add a touch of freshness and beauty to your home. Gardening is fun and rewarding, so as keeping pets like cats. But houseplants are toxic to cats, especially the curious ones that like chewing on things. You don’t want your cat to fall sick or get into an unpleasant situation such as vomiting or diarrhea because he ate poisonous plants inside the house. 

This article will help you identify which plants aren’t safe for your cat from houseplants to garden plants including vegetables and herbs. Let’s get started:

1. Snake Plant

The snake plant is a popular houseplant because it’s easy to maintain and requires minimal care. It’s one of the best plants for low light conditions and for improving air quality. While snake plant is non-toxic to humans, it’s toxic to cats and dogs.

Snake plants contain chemical compounds known as saponins, resulting in feline nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea if consumed. Don’t hesitate to contact a veterinarian if you suspect your cat has eaten this poisonous plant.

2. Asparagus Fern

Asparagus ferns are evergreen plants that produce long, leafy stems from an underground tuber. They have a bushy appearance and add height to your home décor. Asparagus fern is toxic to cats and dogs, so keep them out of reach.

Image credit: https://images.immediate.co.uk/

If your feline friends rub themselves against asparagus fern frequently, it can cause skin irritation. These plants contain saponins which is a compound that can cause dermatitis, stomach pain, and diarrhea in both dogs and cats.

3. Aloe Vera

Aloe Vera is a succulent plant known for its healing properties, especially for burns and wounds. It also contains an ingredient that can be fatal to cats. All parts of the aloe vera plant are toxic to cats if ingested, so keep them away from your furry friends.

4. Peace Lily

This indoor plant may look beautiful, but it’s highly toxic to cats, so cat owners should skip as much as possible. Peace lilies contain insoluble calcium oxalates, so if your cat consumes this lily, it can cause cats to suffer oral symptoms such as burning, excessive drooling, and difficulty swallowing.

Image credit: https://www.almanac.com/

Instead of peace lilies, you can opt for white orchids, which are non-toxic to pets. Plus, they’re gorgeous and have low maintenance requirements.

5. Easter lily

This year-round favorite can create a lot of issues with furry friends. And it’s not only Easter lily that is extremely toxic. Other lilies such as stargazers, tiger lily, and Asiatic lily can cause acute kidney failure in cats.

No matter how beautiful these flowers look, every part of the lily is toxic to your cat, so avoid these types of lilies if you have cats around your home. It can cause vomiting, loss of appetite, and change in energy level.

6. Jade Plant

Also known as money plants, rubber plants, and lucky plants, jade plants are succulents that are easy to grow and are thought to bring their owner’s good luck and fortune. They have dark green fresh leaves and thick wooden-like stems. Jade plant comes in several varieties, all belonging to the family crassula.

These plants are highly toxic to cats, dogs, and horses. They cause symptoms such as vomiting, lethargy, depression, and in coordination if ingested. It’s better to seek veterinary care if you don’t completely understand its toxic component.

7. Sago Palm

Sago palm is a beautiful evergreen plant that grows in tropical and subtropical climates. They can also be grown as houseplants, but they are highly toxic to cats, dogs, and horses if ingested. Sago palm contains cycasin, a toxin that causes vomiting, abdominal pain, lethargy, convulsions, and coma.

Image credit: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/

These plants can do wonders for indoor air quality. Their unique structure makes them a great talking point and a lovely accent piece. However, with their defense mechanism, they can be highly toxic to your feline friend. Sago palm can cause even liver failure and death if consumed or chewed.

8. Indian Rubber Plant

The Indian rubber plant has very attractive large leaves and is sometimes used as an outdoor plant in USDA zones 10 and 11. It can cause vomiting, stomach irritation, and difficulty breathing if your cat ingests it. The plant sap contains a chemical irritant that causes drooling, oral irritation and vomiting, not to mention that this sap can also cause severe skin irritations in humans.

9. Elephant’s Ear

One of the most poisonous of all houseplants for cats is Elephant’s Ear. This plant has large leaves resembling an elephant ear. It causes intense gastrointestinal irritation and vomiting if ingested by your cat.

It contains insoluble calcium oxalates that can cause kidney failure. Fortunately, you can swap it with a calathea medallion which offers the same tropical vibes and rich green foliage, the same as an elephant’s ear. It’s non-toxic to cats and is a low-maintenance plant that even those without a green thumb can keep healthy.

10. Devil’s Ivy

This is a common houseplant that has seen its fair share of the limelight in pop culture recently. The best part is it doesn’t even need soil or water to grow, as all you have to do is wet the walls on which the stems grow, and the Devil’s Ivy will do the rest.

This plant also goes by several names, including pothos, golden pothos, and taro vine. It contains insoluble calcium oxalates that cause mouth, throat, tongue, and lip irritation. It can also cause intense burning, excessive drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing.

You can swap it with a Chinese money plant of the pilea genus family that is considered non-toxic to cats and offers the same drooping aesthetic as devil’s ivy. Plus, these types of non-toxic plants may also bring good Feng shui into your home.

11. Clivia Miniata

This indoor flowering plant contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which can cause intense burning and irritation in pets’ mouths, tongues, lips, and throat. This flowering plant contains alkaloids that can cause symptoms ranging from vomiting, diarrhea, low blood pressure, and arrhythmia in both dogs and cats.

12. Ceriman

Also known as the Hurricane plant or Swiss Cheese Plant, the Ceriman is an indoor flowering plant that contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which can cause intense burning and irritation in the mouth, tongue, lips, and throat of pets.

It’s also one of the most popular household plants, thanks to its tropical look. It, however, contains insoluble calcium oxalates making it moderately toxic to cats.

13. Tomato Plants

The tomato plant or the Lycopersicon is a flowering plant with green leaves and red berries containing tomatine. Just like humans, cats can be affected by its toxic alkaloids if ingested in any quantity.

Try to keep your tomato on the patio or in the garden and out of your cat’s reach. And if you have an outdoor kitty, try to grow non-toxic buttercup squash instead.

14. English Ivy

Thanks to its low-light needs and drought resistance, the common English Ivy is a popular choice as a houseplant. However, it contains triterpenoid saponins which are poisonous for cats if any part of the plant is ingested. Make sure to keep your cat away from this plant.

Its gorgeous drapery feature makes it attractive to curious felines, which is extremely dangerous because English Ivy is toxic to cats. When cats chew it, it can cause a range of symptoms, including weakness, vomiting, throat swelling, excessive drooling, dermatitis, rash, and ataxia.

15. Dumb Cane

Dumb cane also belongs to the same group of plants like English Ivy and is just as poisonous. It contains calcium oxalate crystals which cause burning in the mucous membranes, vomiting, diarrhea, and respiratory distress. Like other toxic plants for cats, keep this plant away from your pets at all times.

Dumb canes come in different varieties, varying from a couple of feet high to over ten feet tall when grown in the right conditions. When ingested, they are highly toxic to cats, and their sap can be a mild irritant to humans, so keep them away from bare skin. Symptoms of dumb poisoning in cats include vomiting, burning of the mouth, oral irritation, swelling, and severe cases of difficulty swallowing and breathing.

16. Azalea

Azalea plants, both the species we enjoy as ornamental plants and those used commercially, are highly toxic to cats. If your cat eats any part of the plant, it will cause gastrointestinal irritation along with excessive drooling, vomiting, and loss of appetite. In extreme cases, seizures have been reported.

The leaves from this house plant are very popular in Asian cooking, so if your cat has a habit of munching on house plants, it might be an idea to remove the philodendron from your home. The entire plant is poisonous, with all parts containing calcium oxalate crystals that cause intense burning of the mouth and throat, swelling of the tongue, intense thirst, and oral ulcers.

17. Moss Rose

In recent years, Moss rose has become an extremely popular house plant, but it’s always best to check with your local veterinarian before introducing any new plant into your home.

The leaves are considered to be non-toxic; however, the stems and seed pods are highly toxic. If ingested, they can cause intense gastrointestinal irritation accompanied by an intense burning sensation, excessive drooling, and vomiting. Hops are closely related to cannabis, but they contain no mind-altering substances.

This houseplant is incredibly poisonous to cats, so you should avoid it. It can cause tremors, kidney failure, and hypersalivation if your cat chews it. You should seek immediate veterinary treatment immediately if you suspect your cat has chewed it.

18. Amaryllis

If you’re growing Amaryllis at home, you should know that it’s a poisonous plant to cats. The stem and bulb of the Amaryllis are toxic, but only if consumed in large quantities. Symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, depression, light sensitivity, and changes in heart rate.

Image credit: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/

When your cat nibbles on this houseplant, it can experience stomach pain, excess drooling, tremors, diarrhea, vomiting, and a decrease in appetite. However, you can swap it with orchids which offer an exotic outburst of color and are non-toxic to cats.

FAQs on Common Household Plants Toxic to Cats

What are some of the cat-friendly houseplants?

Common plants that are cat-friendly in your home that will give you peace of mind include various succulents, orchids, ferns, and spider plants.

How do you keep your cats from eating poisonous plants?

The first step to keeping your pets safe is understanding which plants are poisonous. Some houseplants can be made less toxic by cutting back on their food supply, exposure to light or water.

Final Thought on Popular Houseplants that are Toxic to Cats

Before bringing new plants into your home, it’s important to research first on their toxicity levels. Learning about these common houseplants will help you make the right decision in keeping your houseplants safe and healthy while keeping your pets protected from possible poisoning or illness that can occur when they eat or chew on poisonous plants.

Keeping your indoor safe from these poisonous plants to cats is very easy. But for an outdoor kitty, it gets a bit tricky but you can reduce the chances of accidental ingestion by removing the most dangerous plants from your garden and checking if there is any toxic plant in your neighbor’s garden. Make sure your outdoor plants are not harmful to your furry friend.

 

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Electrical wiring in your home is not something to be taken lightly. If you’re planning to move into a new home or upgrade your old house, it’s important that you understand the electrical load capacity of your home. 

Understanding the load capacity will help you plan and manage the distribution of electricity throughout your house. A qualified electrician can help install new or upgraded electrical services if needed. Keep reading to understand how to calculate electrical load capacity for your home:

What Is Electrical Load Capacity?

Electrical load capacity is the total amount of current a wire can handle. A home requires a certain electrical load capacity to power all of its appliances and electrical devices safely. If your household is going through frequent blackouts, you need to add up the wattage on each appliance and device so that they fall below the limit for which your wiring is rated. 

Image credit: https://www.arnoldelectricchicago.com/

How do you know if your current electrical service is adequate? The total electrical capacity of electrical service is measured in amperage or amperes. When making significant electrical additions to your home, everything that uses electricity to run should be calculated to find the electrical load. 

The electrical load is measured in wattage or watt/hours. The electrical load capacity is the total amount of electric current your household wiring can handle safely at one time before it presents a hazard. 

The national electrical codes are the basis to ensure that wiring is safe and meets safety requirements for a given location. The code states that individual branch circuits in a modern residence should be at least 40 amps, equivalent to eight standard 15 amp outlets per circuit.

Why is Electrical Load Calculation Important?

Finding the correct electrical load capacity by adding up all of the wattages for appliances and devices is important. Not only will they be affected if you overload your circuit, but so will your safety. By finding the electrical load, you’ll be able to determine whether you need to change your electrical service. It will tell you the power supplied in the home is not enough for your electrical use. 

The electrical service is commonly measured in amps, and you can find the amount provided on your electrical power bill, which states that it is 120 volts, 20 amps. Best licensed electricians recommend dedicating a single circuit to appliances that consume so much energy, such as refrigerators, washing machines, air conditioners, and dishwashers to avoid overload. You can avoid spending money on repairs due to overloading by having basic knowledge in calculating your electric load.

How to Find Electrical Load Capacity

Calculating how much power your home needs is calculating the amperage load of all the various appliances and all the light fixtures. Find the total wattage of all appliances and devices plugged into a circuit breaker box by consulting their labels; look for the number of watts (W) they use.

Image credit: https://www.fusionelectrics.co.uk/

Calculating the wattage of a home isn’t an easy task, but there are several items that can be checked if you’re looking to find the amount. Although checking all of your appliances and devices is ideal, oftentimes, it’s impossible or inconvenient to do so, which is why estimations will have to be made based on the average wattage of similar appliances.

If you want to check your home’s electrical load capacity without finding out its wattage, try using a device called an electric load calculation cord available for purchase at hardware stores. If you have an electrician install it, they can then show you how to find your circuit breaker box’s amperage and calculate the wattage of each appliance or device on a circuit. 

Once you know how many amps your load calculation cord reads, multiply it by 120 to find its voltage and then multiply that number by the amperage of each appliance you plan to plug into that circuit. If your total is higher than the circuit’s capacity, you will need to unplug one or more devices before it can safely deliver power where your family needs it. 

The circuit works like how the water flows from a pipe. The water pressure is in volts and the water flow rate is in the amps. The water wheel represents watts which depend on the pressure.  You can use these formulas to calculate individual circuits’ capacity, electrical loads, and the entire electrical service panel.

How to Calculate Your Home’s Electrical Load

Different homes need different amp services, and you can do a little math to figure out what kind of electrical load your house needs. For example, a 60-amp service is inadequate for a modern home, while a 100-amp service is good for a home of less than 3,000 square feet without central air-conditioning and electric heat. 

In that case, a home larger than 2,000 square feet with a central air-conditioning and electric heat may need a 200-amp service. A 100-amp is large enough to power a small to moderate-sized home’s general branch circuit breakers, plus one or two electric appliances, including a water heater and clothes dryer. 

This service may also be sufficient for a home under 2,500 square feet if you’re running your heating appliances on gas. 400-amp service is recommended for large homes with all-electric appliances and heating and cooling equipment. It’s recommended where the expected electric heat load be over 20,000 watts.

How to Add Capacity to Your Electrical Load

Installing a new circuit isn’t that difficult, but ensure your service panel can handle the extra load before you begin. This is because a service panel with too many circuits can be dangerous. Fuse boxes rarely have space for new circuits, so replace the fuse box with a circuit breaker if you have a fuse box and need new service.

If there’s a slot in the breaker box, you can remove an open space or a knockout and install a new breaker and run the cable to it. If there’s no open space, the local electrical codes might allow you to replace a single breaker with a tandem breaker.

Electrical Load Box Sizes

The size of your electrical load box will determine your home electrical capacity. The electrical load boxes come in three categories. These include:

Small Fuse Box (15 amps)

Small load boxes are small enough to fit an electrical panel outside of your home. You can also find this fuse box in older homes where their wiring has not been upgraded. It can supply power to only one 240-volt appliance such as an oven and clothes dryer. 

And since many homes have more than one such appliance, this fuse box is inadequate for a home of 1,200 square feet or more. You can upgrade to a larger size if you plan to add more circuits to your electrical equipment.

Medium-Sized Service Panel (30 amps)

This box is often found in homes that were built before electric dryers and dishwashers become common appliances. This fuse box can supply power for up to three 240-volt appliances such as clothes washers, stoves, and dryers.

Image credit: https://www.eaton.com/

It supplies electricity to the entire home except for lighting circuits which are fed from a separate panel. It’s also the minimum panel amperage required by the national electrical code.

Large Service Panel (100 amps)

This is the box that most homeowners install when adding new circuits or upgrading their electrical systems. This can be fed from either a sub-panel or direct from the main electrical circuit breaker panel. It will supply power to more appliances than any smaller fuse panels, but it’s still limited to 100 amps. 

This type of fuse box might be required in a home that uses large electrical appliances and includes heating and air conditioning equipment. Upgrading to this fuse type can give you more flexibility to use more circuits without worrying about overloading the system.

How to Inspect a Service Panel

It’s always good to be careful when carrying out electrical wiring; kids shouldn’t be around the panel except for adults. Make sure you firmly attach any exposed cable to the wall and clamp it tightly to the knockout holes in the panel.

If you find any hopeless tangle, call in an electrician for an evaluation. Also, call in a professional if you find melted wire insulation, any signs of fire, and extensive rust. Make sure you oversize an electrical service to make future expansion possible.

FAQs on Calculating Electrical Load Capacity for a Home

How do you calculate electrical panel load?

You calculate the total load on the breaker panel by adding the amperage ratings from each circuit breaker then multiply that sum by 120 volts.

re 200 amps enough for a house?

This depends on the size and how many appliances you will be powering. The more lights, outlets, fans, and ovens you plan to use simultaneously, the more electricity your panel will need to supply safely.

What are the maximum amps in a breaker panel?

The electrical service maxes out at 200 amps when the home has both air conditioning and electric heating. Heating capacity can go as high as 250 amps. If you plan to install an electric heating system, contact your local utility company for the maximum amp rating for your specific zone.

Final Thought on Calculating Electrical Load Capacity for a Home

Electrical connections can confuse you sometimes, but it’s not scary or complicated once you know how it works. You need to understand the basics, and you’ll be fine. Always know that overloading your circuits can be hazardous not only to your family but the entire community. 

So, it’s important to familiarize yourself with your electric circuits and learn the basic circulation of electric load capacity. Don’t forget how much such electrical projects cost

 

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You want to change the look of your home by a simple act such as replacing a door. But you don’t have time or money for a professional installation. Installing a new interior door can be simple once you know how to do it. The key is knowing what tools and materials are required and having the right safety gear on hand.

We’ll walk you through each step of the process so that hanging your doors will be easy as pie. No matter whether your project requires one or two doors, we’ve got all of the instructions, tips, and tricks it takes to get them hung safely and securely in no time at all.

Our guide includes everything from choosing hardware to cutting out holes for knobs and locks. And we even show you how to install decorative molding around your new door’s frame if desired. With our handy checklist at hand, there’s no reason why anyone should struggle with hanging doors ever again.

Required Tools and Materials

Sharp chiselScrewdriverUtility knifePencilHandsawTape measureDoor slabElectric or smoothing planeSpirit levelWooden Shims

Steps on How to Hang a door

Remove the Existing Door

If the old door has a transom, remove it from its hinges before you begin to hang your new door. If there’s an old lock in the way of your new slab, position the chisel where it meets the jamb and tap lightly with a hammer until you can knock out the plug by hand. Place wedges of wood underneath your old door to support the jamb while you work. 

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Then unscrew it from its hinges and remove it from the opening. If your hinge is still in good condition, you can set them aside for reuse. Be careful not to damage the hinge recesses in the jamb while you remove it. Also, don’t hang a new door in an old door frame, or you’ll end up fixing a sagging door in the future. 

Measure the Space for Your New Door

Move on to measure the space for your new door. You can use a stud finder to locate the framing members to make sure that you can secure the hinges into place. Be sure that you center it evenly across the opening and between both jamb edges. 

The old door can also guide you, as you can lay it on the new one and mark where you’ll cut the new door with a pencil. You can work with someone to help you position the door in the door frame and level it.

Get the Floor Level

Take your spirit level and check to see if the threshold on your new door is level with the floor. You can use a pencil and mark the high and low points where needed. If the floor is finished but not leveled, then you’ll need to trim one of the door jambs. 

Use shims to position each door jamb evenly against the floor. Mark the shim at the point where the gap is big using a sharp pencil. Measure the thickness of the shim as that measurement is what you’ll need to cut off your door jamb from the opposite side. You can also learn how to level a floor so you avoid any such future problems when hagging a door.

Mark the Hinges

The hinges on a door are usually placed at 1/3 of the total height from the top. Mark the point around the edge of the door, as well as where you will want to hang your new hardware on both sides. Use a sharp pencil to mark clear lines on both the lining and the door.

Once you’ve marked all the hinge positions, remove your door from the lining, place it in the saddle, and wedge it. After that, hinge the side up, square all the pencil lines, and hinge it to the opposite side. Use a straight edge and level to ensure that your door is completely square and plumb. Use shims under either side of the hinges to adjust for deviations, then tack each hinge in place with nails only along the top line.

Place the hinge to mark its length on the door’s edge. Slide it up to the line and mark the first hole. Set your marking gauge up and scribe the width of the hinge into the door edge. Use a sharp Stanley knife to ensure your door won’t always close flush. You can repeat to ensure all hinges are positioned and set the gauge to the same thickness as the hinge between the door and the frame.

Chop the Hinges Out

Use a sharp chisel to chop your hinge horizontally from the top and bottom. Sand, the remaining pencil lines, then drill correct pilot holes for your screws. You can also use a mallet to cut around the perimeter of the hinge recesses you’ve marked. By placing your chisel at 45 degrees, make several cuts apart and to the depth you’ve marked across the wood grain. Put the flat side down, then use the chisel to pare away the wood as you position the hinges. Drill all the holes and ensure one screw gets into each hinge flap.

Trim the Bottom

This is where you’ll need an electric plane or circular saw. Only use them if you need to remove a lot of trims from the bottom. You can as well score your door with a sharp Stanley knife before cutting the bottom to the angle you have designed. This will prevent your door from tearing.

Hold the Door Steady

Now it’s time to attach your wooden blocks on the sides of your interior door to the wall. Place your door in the middle of the space and check the level. Use the spirit level to ensure that your door is even on both sides, then mark where you need to drill the wooden blocks into the wall. Make sure the jambs are resting on the blocks to maintain the correct height.

If the jambs aren’t in the correct position, cut or plane the door using a saw or a block plane. Check if the hinge side of the door is plumb by using the level. If the hinge side of the door is plumb, attach the blocks by hammering 2-inch, 15 nails through each block on the hinge side and into the wall. Check if the gap between the side of the door is even, then do the same for the blocks on the latch side.

Ensure Your New Door will Shut

Now that your door is held in place make sure it will close properly. All you need to do is take out the plug that holds the door slab, then open and close the door as you carefully watch the gaps. If the jambs aren’t in the correct position, cut or plane the door using a saw or a block plane.

If one part is hitting the door, stop first and make sure you adjust the door jamb before you proceed. Move the jamb from the top to the bottom until the problem is solved. If there’s no gap between top and bottom, use a belt sander or plane to create a small gap.

Place Shims Behind the Hinges

If the hinge is too close to the floor, you’ll have a hard time opening and closing them. To avoid this, put a shim behind each hinge. Your door may not stay open by itself because its hinges aren’t level with each other. You can solve this dilemma by popping out the cover on one of the hinges and moving it to a level that aligns with the other.

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After unscrewing and removing the middle screw from each hinge, put a shim behind the hole. Then check your jamb door if it’s still level. If it’s not, add the shim until you get a level door. Check if your door jambs are level with the wall. Check the gap between the slab door and door jambs if they’re still even. Double-check to ensure the gap between the door stop and slab is also even. You don’t want to come back here to learn how to fix a misaligned door, right? That’s what will happen if you skip this step.

Screw the Hinges

Start with the hinge plate at the top of the door. Move to insert a screw into the hole nearest the bottom of the plate, then tighten it. Repeat the same way with the lowest hole on the hinge plate at the bottom of your door. Open and close your door to ensure it works properly. Once you’ve set the hinge at the top of the door, put a level on top of your slab door and make sure it is perfectly even. You may need to adjust the height of the hinge plates if one side doesn’t line up with the other.  

Mount the Latch and Doorknob

If your door frames have a strike plate, then measure how far it’s from the floor and measure the corresponding position of the door. You can also prevent your interior doors from slamming in high winds by enforcing the latch plate. All you have to do is to drill a bit and countersink a hole in the top corner of the space for the latch plate.

Make sure you position your hole away from the edge of the frame. You need to drill a hole in your door that matches the size of your latch plate. Then, position both pieces of wood together while you’re sure they’re level and mark exactly where you need to drill holes.

Remove the Blocks and Hang Your Door

Now that your door can open and close smoothly, the next step is to remove the blocks you have used to prop the door up. Follow the instructions that came with your door for this part of the installation. Use the nails and filler to cover any holes that you made.

Now, find out how to hang a door. Hold your door open on the wedges, and then screw the screw to the hinge using only one screw at each stage. Lift your interior door out of the clamp to give it a frame at a slight angle, then begin by screwing the top hinge to the lining.

FAQs on How to Hang a Door

Can you hang a door without a door frame?

Yes, it’s possible as long the frame is in good condition and not warped or worn out. The door frame doesn’t come with hardware attached; instead, you can either reuse the old frame hardware or replace it with new hardware in the new slab. But a pre-hung door comes set in a frame.

What is a pre-hung door?

The pre-hung door is the package of a door with its frame attached to it. You can hang the new slab on your existing door frame using three basic tools: drill, screwdriver, and hammer.

Can you hang a door on drywall?

Yes, but interior doors should be installed after the drywall is installed. This is because the drywall needs to be secured by nails if you intend to hang door slabs. If not, the door will not hold its weight and may eventually come crashing down, which can cause damage to its hardware, like hinges and screws. 

Hanging your door after installing the drywall will make your doors stay cleaner and prevent any scratches and dents on the door surface.

Final Thought on How to Hang a Door

Hanging a door by yourself is much easier, especially if you’re using wooden blocks to hold the door in position. You don’t need any additional support. So, it’s something you can do on your own. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to leave a comment below, and we’ll get back to you as soon as possible.

 

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With the increasing temperature and the rising energy costs, it is necessary to find a solution that can help you save money. The heating and cooling bills are the most expensive part of your utility bill. They account for 50% to 60% of your total monthly energy use, depending on where you live. 

You can save money by reducing how much heat or air conditioning is needed in any room. This doesn’t mean that you have to compromise on comfort. Programmable thermostats let you set temperatures according to a schedule so that the rooms are comfortable when they’re occupied while saving energy when they’re not being used. 

To save money on your utility bills, it is better to go for programmable thermostats instead of manual thermostats. But not all of them can provide the services you need. To help you choose the most suitable ones, we’ve compiled some of the best programmable thermostats to install in your home:

1. Honeywell Home Programmable Touchscreen Thermostat

This is one of the best programmable thermostats available in the market. It helps you save a lot of money on your utility bills as it features a technology called Smart Response Technology. This feature automatically calculates how long it will take to reach a certain temperature and switches off or turns on the heating or cooling systems for that particular period.

Image credit: https://www.ubuy.ke/

In addition to temperature, the Honeywell thermostat has a sleek square design with a large touch screen display. This screen shows indoor humidity percentage and time of the day using a cool-blue backlight that you can easily use anywhere in your room. 

The thermostat is capable of automatically sensing when your home needs cooling and heating based on your preference. The temperature range limits also allow you to set maximum and minimum temperatures so the auto schedules won’t go beyond your comfort level. It’s compatible with most two-stage HVAC systems.

2. Ecobee SmartThermostat with Voice Control

The Ecobee thermostat is designed to respond to your voice commands. This shouldn’t be surprising, as it was built for Alexa users looking for a way to control their heating and cooling system hands-free. The device also has room sensors that monitor the temperature in multiple locations within the house to adjust each terminal unit. Its 24-hour programming abilities can save up to 23 percent annually on heating and cooling costs.

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If you want a thermostat that you can control at the comfort of your couch, Ecobee is the right choice. Ecobee model also integrates with a smartphone, smartwatch, and other popular smart home products like Google Assistant, Apple Home Kit, and Samsung SmartThings.  

3. Mysa Smart Programmable Thermostat

It’s a smart thermostat made for music as it has Bluetooth technology that allows it to stream music. Mysa Smart Thermostat is an affordable, high-quality thermostat that is very easy to install. The user can control it through the app or by voice with Amazon Alexa or Google Assistant. It’s the best smart thermostat for apartments.

Mysa also comes with additional features like geo-tracking and scheduling, so you know when your energy-saving habits are kicking in during specific times of the day. Finding a smart thermostat with electric baseboard heating can be challenging, and one of the best options available in the Mysa Smart thermostat for electric baseboard heaters can be challenging.

It also works best with electric fan-forced heaters, and it requires one neutral or second live wire. You can set a schedule and track energy using the Mysa app. The app experience is similar to what you’ll find in other smart devices, which provides remote control of the system, geofencing options, and the ability to chart energy consumption. Mysa also plays nice with smart home assistants, including power extender Kit, Amazon Alexa, and Google Assistant.

4. Google Nest Learning Thermostat

The Google Nest Learning Thermostat is one of the best smart thermostats available. The device features a large display and good connectivity via Wi-Fi, giving you remote access to your heating and cooling system through an app. It works with some electric heaters, and it’s not compatible with geothermal or electric baseboard heaters. 

Image credit: https://richmedia.ca-richimage.com/

The best smart thermostat like Nest Thermostat can be controlled at the comfort of your smartphone. This gadget will also help you learn your schedule and the temperatures you like and automatically create a program that will help you save energy and stay comfortable. 

Its sleek circular design comes in various metal finishes and is compatible with 95 percent of heating and cooling systems. This thermostat is Wi-Fi enabled, meaning that you can adjust it from your smartphone, plus you can manually adjust it via the unit’s outer dial.

Thanks to its smart programming, it can save you up to 12% on heating costs and 15% on cooling costs. It can also show you your energy usage and insights on how much energy you’ve used and why on your phone. You may require professional installation to install the c wire if you don’t have one.

5. Honeywell Home Programmable Thermostat

This best smart thermostat works with Amazon Alexa, plus it provides push notifications when you’re away from home. It’s compatible with 95% of heating, and cooling systems, easy to install using the Honeywell Home app, and also allows for two-way communication so that your HVAC system can alert you when there are potential problems.

If you like a thermostat without smart features and touchscreens but still want something easy to work with, the Honeywell 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat is a good choice. It doesn’t come with advanced features like geofencing or voice control, but it does help you control your heating and cooling system with simple programming options. 

The 5 to 2 programming allows you to have a different four-period schedule for the two weekend days, and the unit offers positive and negative one-degree temperature control. The thermostat is backlit for easy viewing. You should also note that it is only compatible with low-volt heating and cooling systems. It’s the best smart thermostat for multiple zones.

6. Emerson Sensi Touch Wi-Fi Smart Thermostat

If you’re looking for a unit that goes above and beyond, the Sensi Touch Wi-Fi Smart Thermostat deserves your attention. This device not only lets you control your HVAC system remotely but adds in some smart home capabilities as well.

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The Sensi Touch Wi-Fi Smart Thermostat works with Siri—ask your hub to set the temperature in your home. You can even control it when you’re not at home, thanks to geofencing capabilities. Like other units, this one also offers an auto-away mode that adjusts the temperature based on whether or not someone is there. 

This thermostat has a color LCD touchscreen and replaces your existing wall unit. Using wireless capabilities, it functions with iOS and Android devices. It also works with Amazon’s Alexa so that you can ask for the temperature via voice. 

Sensi touch offers advanced features such as flexible scheduling and geofencing, plus, it can save you up to 23 percent on HVAC energy usage. It is compatible with popular smart home platforms like Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant. It will also send you smart alerts if it detects extreme temperature and humidity levels in your home.

7. Orbit Clear Comfort Programmable

This thermostat is another option to consider. Orbit Clear Comfort is more than just a thermostat; it’s also an automatic system that allows you to customize heating and to cool for up to four areas in your home. This means that if you have separate zones or rooms in your home, you can control the temperature of each space separately.

Orbit Clear Comfort is also compatible with smart home platforms, including Apple Homekit and Nest. Like the other Orbit option, it will also send alerts if extreme temperature or humidity levels are detected in your home. This is a one-stage thermostat that works with gas, oil, and electric furnaces. 

You can also use it with HVAC systems,  central air conditioners, two hotwire systems, millivolt systems, and heat pump systems that do not have backup heat. However, it’s not designed for use with baseboard heaters and multi-stage heating and cooling systems. Its early start feature ensures your desired temperature is reached by the programmed time.

8. SunTouch Command Touchscreen Programmable Thermostat

The SunTouch digital thermostat is another option that includes a touchscreen display for easier use. This model also has a wide temperature range, works with all types of heating and cooling systems, and is compatible with a number of smart home platforms.

It syncs up to the Nest app so you can help save energy when you’re not at home. It also requires remote control. The SunTouch thermostat is designed for homes with insulation and offers precise temperature control (0.5 to 1 degree Fahrenheit) without experiencing any significant fluctuations in temperature. 

It’s rated to work between -4 degrees Fahrenheit and 122 degrees Fahrenheit, making this programmable thermostat an excellent choice for radiant flooring. It is easy to install if you have heated floors, and you can use it as a replacement for any floor heating thermostat that uses 10k sensor wire. It has a built-in GFCI for safety, and its SmartStart technology ensures your floor has reached the set temperature at your scheduled time.

9. King Programmable Electronic Line Voltage Thermostat

This thermostat has a large LED display that’s easy to read from across the room, and it has a backlight for nice, clear viewing. It should fit most standard electrical boxes, and it comes with a quick install guide. It can be programmed from one week to seven days, and you can choose between two start times per day or four start times per day.

It has a simple two-button control accessible when the cover is closed, keeping the programming buttons out of sight and away from curious children. It has a battery backup that protects the programmed settings from power outage resets.

10. Schluter Ditra Programmable Floor Heating Thermostat

Suppose you need to control the in-floor heating system to ensure that temperatures remain consistent and comfortable for all residents at your home or workplace. In that case, you need to install this programmable thermostat. This thermostat boasts a large touchscreen display that is easy to read and use.

A built-in floor temperature sensor and the display can indicate time, date, temperature, and whether the system is operating via manual setting. It has six different programming periods that allow the user to select the ideal temperature for the time of the day. This means warmer floors at night and in the early morning to help prevent freezing surfaces that can cause bare feet to coil.

11. Lux Products Programmable Thermostat

Installation is easy for this thermostat. You can start to program it in a matter of minutes, and it does not require a lot of effort or time. These thermostats come with a user manual that has clear instructions you can follow to set up your new device. Another great feature about the Lux Products Programmable Thermostat is that it can be installed by just about anyone.

It comes with an installation manual, and you can use this as a guide when installing the device. All of the materials you require for the installation will come with your purchase of the thermostat. It is easy to program, and since it has a large display screen, those who have vision problems will not have a hard time reading what is required.

While you are sleeping, you can set the device to turn off the heat or cool air so that your house won’t be too cold or hot when you wake up in the morning. If you are looking for a programmable but you’re not interested in any smartphone or smart home integration and remote control of the heating and cooling systems in your home, then this programmable thermostat may be the best choice for you.

What to Look for in a Programmable Thermostat

Ease of Installation

When you are ready to start, the first thing you will need to do is install the new programmable thermostat. With most modern devices, this means removing a few screws and wires from your old thermostat. New models come with helpful instructions and have features in their respective apps to help you connect thermostats to your HVAC system.

Scheduling Options

The next thing you should look for in a programmable thermostat is how easy it will be to program the devices. Many appliances these days have touch screens that allow you to select your schedule with your finger, but other models require you to cycle through each day of the week and power button up or down on each one.

Features and Settings

Many of the most advanced thermostats feature Wi-Fi connectivity and/or an accompanying smartphone app, allowing you to control your heat from anywhere with a cellular signal. Some models come with extra features such as humidity sensors, backup batteries, and more. These can all be nice additions to have, but they will likely only cost you extra money.

Price

As always, the price is a major factor in what you get for your money. Usually, more features or settings will come at a higher cost, while simpler models are typically less expensive.

Be sure to consider all the features you want before deciding if it’s worth spending extra on them or not. We’ve also reviewed some of the best programmable thermostats available under $100 that are nice picks for those looking to save money.

Smart Speaker Compatibility

When deciding on a thermostat, one of the most important things is making sure it’s compatible with your heat source. Most modern models are compatible with gas, oil, electric, or even heat pumps.

If you have a heat pump, you’ll most likely want to look for something compatible with it. Some speaker models are also compatible with Amazon Alexa or Google Home so keep that in mind when deciding on one that’s right for you.

esthetics

The aesthetics of the model are also important to consider. Although most thermostats require power and a C Wire, some models will work with an AA Battery while others have more unique designs that fit within your home’s décor.

FAQs on Best Programmable Thermostats

re programmable thermostats suitable for most homes?

Yes, programmable thermostats are compatible with most cooling and heating systems. 

Can you install programmable thermostats yourself?

Yes, especially if you’re replacing an old programmable thermostat with a similar model.

Final Thought on Best Programmable Thermostats

The type of programmable thermostat you choose will depend on the amount you’re willing to spend, plus the features you’re looking for. If you’re not tech-savvy, then you won’t need all the home integration and app connectivity. But whatever type you choose, it will help you cut down energy costs without sacrificing your comfort.

 

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Building a deck is one of the most popular home improvement projects in the country. It’s also one of the most dangerous construction projects that homeowners can undertake on their own. Whether you’re doing it alone or with the help of constructors, it’s important to follow building code requirements to ensure your deck is safe and meets local regulations when it comes to building your deck. 

There are many different types of decks, but they all have one thing in common, they need proper support. The International Code Council (ICC) has created minimum standards for constructing decks based on their intended use and height above grade. Failure to meet these building codes could result in serious injuries or even death from falling off a poorly built deck. 

The ICC publishes various model building code documents, including those related to decks and other structures. These include IBC – International Building Code and IRC – International Residential Code. This article will take you through the key code requirements for residential decks, as well as some best practices that will help keep you safe while building your new addition.

Draw Up Your Plan

The first step in deck building is to clearly define your project scope. In the model building code document IRC, this is called Defined Permitted Uses. You will need to specify whether you are going to build a ground-level or elevated deck and if it will be used for a private residence, guest house, and storage structure. 

After drawing the plan, submit it to the local building department to obtain a building permit. After constructing your deck, make sure it’s inspected to ensure compliance with applicable codes. If you’re not working with a contractor familiar with the codes, it’s good to study some sections of IRC and the codes published by your local building department.

Footing Size and Depth

After laying the perimeter of your deck, set the footings that will support the posts and the deck. The code specifies the minimum width and thickness depending on the beam and joist span. Size your footings by consulting Table R507.8 of the code. 

Image credit: http://aconcordcarpenter.com/

If you’re installing square footings, they should be at least 21 inches wide and 9 inches thick, and your beam spacing should be less than 8 feet. For circular footings, follow the same size guidelines but use a formula in IRC Table R507.9 to figure out the footing depth.

Remember that your footing depth must be at least as deep as the thickness of your frost line, and also keep in mind that some codes require even deeper footings beyond your frost line if you live in an area with cold winters. The footing sizes will also depend on the soil’s load-bearing capacity, and the live load, the deck, must support.

Posts and Beams

Any wood you’re incorporating into your deck structure in ground contact must be pressure-treated lumber. If the beam is more than 1 thick, you may want to consider doubling up on 2×12 beams if they have a span of more than 10 feet. If you’re deck posts on concrete footings, ensure you secure them with positive hardware connections.

Image credit: https://www.qualitydecking.co.uk/

For all other post sizes and joist span, refer to IRC code R505 for limb size limitations and spacer requirements depending on how old the deck load requirements are. Beams resting on footings need to be cut in with a ¼” x 1½” slope away from the house. All beams must have multiple joist hangers with no less than one joist hanger per bearing point when using 2x lumber.

Ledger Boards

It’s okay to attach a deck to the side of your house or other structure, and when doing this, you’ll need the support of a ledger board. The ledger board must be greater than the width of the floor joists. Attach the board to the floor framing behind the siding using screws or bolts of adequate size.

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For installations where siding is not present, attach the ledger to the studs with at least one ½” lag screw into a top plate and bottom plate. Use joist hangers to attach the joists to the ledger boards and ensure you secure the two outer joists to the floor joist on the other side of the wall with joist hangers.

Deck Guardrail Height

The IRC requires diagonal bracing on all free-standing decks higher than 30 inches. The bracing must connect each post to the beam or joist that’s supported by the post. Make sure the bracing material is 2×4 lumber, and use 1/2 inch through the bolt at each connection point. 

The railings must be at least 36 inches high and include balusters that are no more than 4 inches apart. You must attach each guard post supporting the railing to the rim joist with two 1/2-inch through bolts.

Joists and Decking Boards Requirements

You must attach the decking boards with 3/8-inch carriage bolts, 1.5 inches long, with washers and nuts. Space the fasteners every 6 inches along the edges of the boards and at 12 inches on center for interior joists. When you use two different wood species that are not compatible, you must separate them with a larger space filled with wood structural panel sheathing. 

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The deck joist must be at least 3 inches from the face of the ledger, and you cannot attach it to the side of a house that is less than 2 feet vertically from ground level unless you install blocking between the wall studs. Joist span length and spacing are functions of joist size.

Requirements for Deck Stairs

Stair, stair stringers, and stairs guards must meet the deck design and strength requirements for tread height and spacing requirements. The code lays out stair requirements for decks and other elevated surfaces. The maximum rise of a stair is 8.25 inches, while the minimum depth is 10 inches. 

Stringers are required to have at least 4-inch tread depth at 12 inches from the nose of the stringer, and they cannot be less than 11 1/4inches in depth measured 11 1/2inches from the nose of the stringer. The stair treads must sustain a weight of at least 300 pounds.

The stair must have a landing that is at least as wide as the stairs themselves, and it cannot be less than 36 inches deep, measuring from the back of the stair stringers. In addition, there must be a handrail with an outside clearance of between 4 and 7 1/2inches on both sides of the stair.

Deck Balusters and Benches

Deck benches are not accepted as guardrail alternatives by the code. On the decks tall enough to require guardrails, the mastic of the guardrails is reduced to a minimum height of 30 inches from the decking surface. On deck balusters, the balusters should be 4 inches apart or less. One classic rule of thumb is that a 4-inch diameter sphere cannot pass through the balusters.

There should be maximum spacing for balusters to prevent small kids from getting stuck and falling through.

Guardrails and Handrails

There must be a minimum 2-inch railing on decks more than 30 inches above grade, measured vertically to the deck surface from the deck’s outside edge. There is no requirement for guardrails in decks less than 30 inches above grade (except for stairs), but there must be a minimum 36-inch-high handrail.

A 4-inch diameter sphere cannot pass through the space between balusters or any other opening in the railing. When it comes to guardrail strength requirements, the International Building Code requires that guardrails must be able to sustain a 200-pound force at the mid-span between posts without excessive deflection. You can use mid span blocking for various purposes in your deck building including when building a floating deck

FAQs on Building Code Guidelines for Decks

re decks considered as structures?

Decks are structures that help extend living spaces by creating outdoor environments that can be enjoyed year-round. The local building code should define a deck as a structure if it isn’t built over a garage or other structure on the same property, has two stories in height, and has an area greater than 120 square feet.

What is the minimum required deck size?

The minimum required deck size is determined by how many people can use the deck safely at one time. The local building code requires decks to have a minimum of 800 square feet in size if more than eight people can be on it at any given time.

Final Thought on Building Code Guidelines for Decks

There you have it! Even if you’re sure you have a handle on code requirements, it’s important to check with your local building department before you start new deck construction. This is because many states and localities often change their requirements, and it’s better to be safe than sorry.

 

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Godetia is a spring-blooming annual flower. It’s native to Western North America. It blooms throughout the summer and attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. However, most people don’t know how to care for this beautiful flowering plant and end up killing their plants instead.

If you want your Godetia to thrive, you should take the time to learn about its growing conditions to give it what it needs. If you want to keep your yard free from these invasive plants, growing them yourself will help reduce their numbers.

Growing this flower isn’t hard, but there are a few things you’ll need to know before planting, so you don’t end up with dead flowers. Here’s how to grow the godetia plant successfully and without accidentally spreading seeds.

Origin of the Names

This genius plant was called Godetia about a 19th-century Swiss botanist Charles Henry Godet. Later, the name was changed to Clarkia in honor of William Clark of the famous Lewis and Clark Expedition. And finally, Godetia amoena, which means beautiful and pleasing. 

The Godetia plant is also named farewell to spring because it doesn’t like hot and humid summer weather. It’s a cool-season annual that puts on most of its growth in the spring. As soon as temperatures begin to rise at the start of the summer, godetia flowers come into their peak, leading to their nickname farewell to spring.

Godetia Care

Size and Growth

The Godetia plant grows to about 14 inches tall and 16 inches wide, with green leaves on top and gray underneath. These elegant plants produce green stems with thin leaves. As an annual plant, Godetial dies each year.

Flowering and Fragrance

Godetia plants produce a cluster of trumpet-shaped pink, red, or salmon flowers. The Godetia flower blooms in the late spring then flower throughout the summer. While the flowers don’t have a noticeable fragrance, they’re still very attractive to look at. Godetia plants can also make great cut flowers. All you need to do is to cut several stems once the flowers appear, then trim off the spent blooms to encourage new blooms to appear.

Soil

Godetias thrives on soil types ranging from sandy to loamy soils with medium acidic content. Adding organic matter before planting helps maintain this pH balance. These plants grow well on average to rich soil. Organic matter helps to keep the soil moist and not wet. You can make compost to get organic matter easily. Add mineral fertilizer when planting, then once a month after planting. 

This will ensure strong roots and a healthy plant. Also, mulch around them to help retain soil moisture and keep the plants healthy. You can also use any enhanced water that is available from large retailers for watering these plants.

Watering

Godetia plants have similar needs as other flowering annuals when it comes to watering. Provide enough water, so your plant doesn’t wilt but not too much water to where it’s sitting in puddles. Whether you grow it in a tub, pot, or container, this plant needs frequent watering. 

This means if you’ve seen your plant start wilting, then give it a bit of water, which should restore its health. If the wilting persists, then you may have given it too much water, or your soil is overly wet. On the other hand, if your plant isn’t wilting but looks dry, you can water it to restore its health.

Light and Temperature

Grow Godetia in full sun unless your garden is in a hot area with lots of humidity. It’s also suitable for outdoor growth in USDA hardiness zones two to eleven. It can tolerate both warm and full sun, but it’s not a particularly picky plant.

Grooming Godetia Plant

Do not prune your plant at the end of winter because this will affect flower production. Instead, it’s better to cut back around mid-summer and then again in early autumn should you feel the need to do so. Make sure you dead-head and remove withered flowers as this will encourage new blooms next year.

How to Propagate Godetia Amoena

As an annual, this plant dies at the end of every year, so you need to propagate it with seed each year. After purchasing your seeds, you can plant them any time of the year. Sow the seeds early spring indoors and cover lightly with fine garden or potting soil to encourage early bloom. 

Image credit: https://www.gardensonline.com.au/

You can directly seed it in your flower garden or start it in four to six weeks before the last frost date in your region. When sowing outdoors, sow the seeds after the last frost date. Flowers bloom early to mid-summer while taller varieties may require staking.

Use a propagating tray to help you spread the seeds over the light soil, then cover your seeds with plastic and poke holes for ventilation. Placing your tray in a bright spot such as a windowsill and balcony will help your seeds grow. Ideal plant spacing is 16 to 20 inches and godetia plants don’t like to be crowded.

How to Grow Godetia Plants from Seeds

Godetia is grown from seeds, and this propagation method is not difficult for flower growers. You can sow godetia seeds directly in the open ground where you want to grow your flowers. However, if you are a beginner, sow the seeds in seed trays or containers to make it easy for you to identify each type of seedling.

Image credit: https://www.thespruce.com/

If you want to sow your godetia seeds in the garden, do it in the middle or end of April. In areas with warmer climates, you can sow seeds even in autumn. Before planting, immerse your seeds in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour to protect future sprouts from diseases.

Spring Planting of Godetia

At the end of May or early June, you can plant seedlings that have reached 2 to 2.8 inches in an open ground with the soil cold so as not to damage the roots of the seedlings. You should do this in cloudy weather, early in the morning before sunrise or in the evening after sunset.

utumn Planting of Godetia

Autumn Godetia should be planted only in warm climate areas. Flower growers prefer to sow seeds directly into the ground. However, plants grown from the seeds sown in late autumn are better adapted to the environment and resistant to pests and disease.

Species and Varieties of Godetia

Godetia Grandiflora

This is the most common species in commercial cultivation. The plant’s height reaches 20-30 cm, and the flowers are purple or pinkish. They grow well in half shade but are not among the shade-loving flowers. You must also remember to protect them from direct sun rays during hot summer days.

Godetia Amoena

This variety is two feet high and produces large flowers with a diameter of 4-5 cm. Plant it in full sun, but protect its delicate buds from frost and strong wind.

Double Godetia

This is a rare variety that features double flowers in white or rose colors. The plant is tall – 1-1, 5 m. Seeds need cold weather to germinate and will only grow in bright sunlight.

FAQs on How to Grow and Care for Godetia Plant

Is the Godetia plant easy to grow?

Growing Godetia is easy and fun; plus, the plant will provide you with heaps of flowers in just a few months.

What’s the best way to grow Godetia?

You can grow godetia flowers in containers, window boxes, or flower beds. If you want it to survive during winter, plant it in rich soil with organic matter and place it in full sun during summertime.

Final Thought on How to Grow and Care for Godetia Plant

As you can see, growing and caring for the Godetia plant is not that hard and is very rewarding. If you love flowers, then you should consider growing this plant. You will enjoy the color and beauty of the godetia flower in your garden.

 

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Wood floors are beautiful, but they can get damaged easily. This is why you should know how to apply polyurethane to floors correctly. Polyurethane is a very important part of the flooring process because it protects your hardwood from scratches and other damages.

But if you don’t apply it correctly, your efforts will be useless. If you want to learn everything about this topic, keep reading our article.

Follow this step-by-step guide on how to apply polyurethane for floors correctly using the right products and tools. This way, you can be sure that your hardwood flooring will look great with minimal effort on your part.

What You’ll Need

Mineral spiritsWhite vinegarContainer or canNatural bristle brushOil-based polyurethaneWater-based polyurethaneBreathing and synthetic protectionPainter’s tapePaint tray and linersVacuum machineSander machineCutting padMixing stickRoller padGrit sandpaperSteel woolClean clothsPolyurethanePaint brush

Choose the Type of Polyurethane

You can choose water-based polyurethane if your floors are natural color or oil-based polyurethane if your floor has been stained or finished. Water-based polyurethane is the way to go if you’re hoping to complete the project within one day. Oil-based polyurethane tends to be less expensive than water-based, but it takes more prep work and time to complete the job.

Water-based polyurethane looks milky and dries to a clear finish, while oil-based adds a deeper hue to the existing color of the floor. Oil-based also has a strong odor and takes longer to dry.

Make Sure You Have a Well-Ventilated Working Area

One of the most important steps to follow when applying polyurethane is to have a well-ventilated working area. If you plan on applying several coats, it’s best to use a room with a large open window and a fan. Put on proper protective equipment before applying polyurethane.

Make sure your windows are open and use window fans to circulate fresh air throughout the room. Open your doors to allow the smell of polyurethane to escape

Prepare the Floor by Sanding

Lightly sand down rough surface on your wood floor. Sanding down your hardwood flooring is very important because it gives the new coat of polyurethane a nice smooth surface that will allow the finish to adhere. Sweep and mop your floors before sanding; you don’t want sawdust in between coats.

Image caption: https://www.thespruce.com/

If possible, try not to use a hose or power washer to clean your floor as it can damage wood grain and cause water damage to a floor. You might not even know it is damaged. Allow the wood flooring to dry before continuing. Start sanding while considering the condition of your floor.

Rent a sanding machine and use the machine’s user manual to guide you. If your floors are severely damaged, and you want to change the color completely, sand down the wood to bare wood. 

On the other hand, you can screen and recoat with polyurethane without sanding down the flooring, but make sure you remove any glue or residue left on the floors. Wipe down your room with a tack cloth to pick up sawdust. Allow your hardwood to dry completely while sanding.

Vacuum Your Floor

The sanding process can kick up a lot of sawdust, so start this step by using a shop vacuum cleaner to carefully suck up the debris. Use a vacuum machine to clean all the dust and unwanted particles from the floor. Carefully clean all corners so that small objects like hair and cotton balls don’t cause a problem later.

Cleaning is very important as it will leave you with a beautiful topcoat. So, after vacuuming, use white vinegar and water to wipe down your floor. Remember to turn on the fan to let the room dry quickly. This will enable your wooden floor to become stronger and more flexible.

Make sure you clean all the edges and corners properly, as this is a major part of the wooden floor. Make sure you use a white vinegar and water solution and also a mop. Don’t forget to wear your gloves while using this product.

Once it’s clean, use a dry cloth to wipe down all remnants of cleaners on your floor. You can then use a hairdryer to make sure there’s no moisture left on the floor. If you’re applying water-based polyurethane, make sure you stain your wooden flooring before applying the polyurethane.

Wipe Down the Surface by Mineral Spirits

After vacuuming, use mineral spirits or paint thinner to wipe down the surface. Apply it with a lint-free cloth, let this dry completely and make sure there are no streaks left behind on your flooring. This will remove all the remaining debris and dust.

Make sure you wipe the entire floor as you pay much attention to cracks and crevices to remove all oil and dust particles. After wiping, allow it to dry fully before coating it with polyurethane. You can find mineral spirits in the paint-and-primer section of home improvement stores, hardware stores, and superstores in your area.

Protect Your Baseboards with Masking Tape

If you have wooden baseboards in your home, make sure to protect them from the overspray of polyurethane when painting your floor with masking tape. This tape will help keep any polyurethane from getting on the baseboards when projecting it onto the floor’s surface. To stick the tape to the wall, just run a wet rag along the surface.

Mix Your Polyurethane

Mixing your polyurethane will help you achieve a durable coating. You can use a big jar or can to get your polyurethane liquid in one container. Pouring all your liquid in one container will help them mix better than in separate containers.

Use a stirrer or paint stick to remove all lumps of polyurethane before application. A stick will help you get all the layers, so there aren’t any shades of color on your floor. Keep stirring until your entire mixture is even and smooth. Your container should also be large enough to be able to mix it without spilling or making a mess.

After all, you wouldn’t want to run out of liquid before applying the liquid in your entire room. When you’re done mixing, shake your can of polyurethane, then pour it on a paint tray.

pplying the Polyurethane

Apply the first coat using a paint brush or painter’s pad. You can also use a bristle brush but not lambswool applicator or foam pads. These tools leave it hard to remove streaks, so be sure to use a good brush when applying polyurethane. Don’t make your layers too thick; they should be about 1/16 of an inch or less.

Use a bristle brush to coat all the corners and edges of your floor. You can use a very thin, light coat on these areas to ensure that they dry correctly and don’t form water bubbles. After that, use an applicator pad or roller pad to brush your polyurethane onto the rest of your floor. This should be a medium to heavy coat, but again, not too thick.

When applying polyurethane with an applicator pad, go in small sections, covering about four to six square feet at a time. You can use one hand for rolling and another for turning the pad over. This process has the potential to become very messy, so you should have something to wipe your hands off as you go.

pply the Second and Third coat

Let the floor dry overnight, then fill in any missed spots with a second coat of polyurethane the next day. Water-based polyurethane products are not as thick as oil-based polyurethane products, and they take less time to dry than oil-based polyurethane.

Image caption: https://static.woodmagazine.com/

So, give it 3-4 hours to dry before applying the next coat. If you want to use an oil-based product, you’ll need to wait one week between coats. After your first coat is fully dried, softly sand the entire floor with 220-grit sandpaper for a smooth finish.

Before applying the second coat, use liquid white vinegar to wipe down the floor. It’s also important to clean your wooden floors before you apply the second coat. Follow the same steps as with your first coat to apply the second coat.

The last thing you want to do is put on too much polyurethane, which will leave oily patches that will be impossible to clean up without damaging your flooring. So apply it sparingly and take your time. One good coat should do the trick for most floors, but you may need to go over certain problem areas twice to achieve a consistent finish.

Let your wood floor sit for three to four hours before sanding and cleaning the surface. Paint the final coat, the third coat, and leave your floor dry for three to four hours to get the prolific finish.

Use Abrasive Pad to Even Out the Surface

To create an even finish and to help with the drying process, it is advisable to rub the polyurethane with a piece of coarse sandpaper or steel wool. This will give you a smoother surface and ensure that your finished product has an attractive sheen.

Recoat the Finish and Let it Dry for 24 Hours

Avoid walking on your floor for 24 hours after applying the final coat. Wait until the polyurethane dries before walking in. Don’t replace your furniture for at least three days, and wait for one week before replacing your rugs and carpets. This will make your floor fully cure.

Image caption: https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/

Clean the Floor

Clean up any spills immediately with a damp cloth to prevent stains from setting into the finish. Always use an approved cleaner on your floor, as well as a mop or dry rag to clean it. Avoid using water if possible, as this will create marks and streaks.

FAQS on How to Apply Polyurethane for Floors

What is the best applicator for polyurethane on floors?

Polyurethane is applied with a brush, paint roller, or spraying. Brush application gives an even finish and is recommended for small areas of less than 150 square feet. Rollers are easier to handle on smooth surfaces, while spraying requires more skill but can get into hard-to-reach corners.

How often do I need to apply polyurethane?

Recoating your floor with polyurethane depends on many factors: traffic and use, frequency of cleaning, and how long you wait between coats. Most floors need refinishing every year or two. The first coat should be applied as soon as the old finish has dried thoroughly. 

Final Thought on How to Apply Polyurethane for Floors

Polyurethane coating is an extremely useful liquid to improve the durability of your surface. A perfectly wooden floor also makes a home a comfortable place to live in. Make sure you follow the steps mentioned above correctly because using incorrect steps can waste time and money.

Follow this guide on applying polyurethane on hardwood floors to complete your flooring project in the right manner. It is always better to use all available resources before starting with any home improvement activity.

 

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Growing your vegetables is a great way to save money and get healthy farm produce. But finding the time or space for a large vegetable garden can be hard. A small veggie garden doesn’t have to be boring. You can create an amazing-looking vegetable garden in just about any size yard or patio area with some creativity, plus rich, fertile soil and adequate water. 

By growing your food in a small space garden all year long, you’ll save money while getting some exercise and enjoying nature. This article will show how to grow veggies even if you live in an apartment or condo with limited garden space. It includes information on what types of plants do well in small spaces and techniques for maximizing the available area so that more crops can be grown there.

Grow Vegetables in Containers

A great way to grow vegetables in a limited space is by using containers that can be moved around as needed. Try growing them in containers filled with potting soil if you don’t have a patio, porch, balcony, yard, or driveway area for garden beds and rows of crops. It’s important to use a good quality potting mix, not dirt from the yard.

Image credit: https://www.backyardgardenlover.com/

The potting soil mix will make sure the plants get enough air circulation and drainage, so they don’t get root rot or other fungal diseases. If growing on the ground is not an option due to poor soil, lack of sun, and space limitations, containers are the best alternative. When growing edibles in these containers, choose patio or dwarf varieties and shallow-rooted plants such as lettuce, garlic, radishes, and leeks.

In containers, you use anything that holds soil, from fabric grow bags to old metal wash buckets, as long as you provide good drainage. Container plants also need good water, so do not leave them dry out completely. Fertilize your containers during the growing season by using organic fertilizer such as liquid kelp. Grow your tomatoes, peppers, and basil from seed using your large container.

Choose Compact Varieties

If you must have giant vegetables like beefsteak tomatoes or a row of sweet corn, then the space for growing other vegetables in your small vegetable garden will be limited. Fortunately, you can choose varieties that are bred to grow in small spaces. 

Any plant with the name patio, pixie, tiny, compact, and baby and dwarf in the name is a good bet. If a plant is bred to be small, it doesn’t mean that the fruits will be small or less yield. The labeling of seeds and seedlings will indicate the mature size of the plant varieties. 

There is an area set aside for growing vegetables, fruits, and herbs in the traditional approach, but in small gardens, this isn’t possible. So, try growing edible and ornamental plants together. Planting flowers and vegetables together will make it harder for pests to hone in on specific crops. 

An abundance of blooms will also ensure there are always beneficial insects on hand to pollinate flowering vegetables and all types of fruit. Also, include edible flowers such as borage, nasturtiums, lavender, calendula, chives, and thyme. 

Don’t forget to create a pollinator-friendly garden by planting ground cover. Try growing fennel or dill with your vegetables. The scents of these plants will attract bees or butterflies, which are also beneficial for pollination purposes.

Use Vertical Space

A small garden doesn’t have to mean a lack of vegetables. Try growing vegetables vertically on walls, fences, or railings. The tying string between two sturdy stakes is an effective way of growing runner beans or peas. Plant climbing varieties of cucumbers, tomato plants, and different types of squash are at the base of fixed support for them to grow up along.

Image credit: https://www.almanac.com/

 A rose arbor, trellis, or even a clothesline can be put to good use in the garden by growing beans up it. This frees up ground space and will save you money on buying plant supports. So if you don’t want to grow a variety of vegetables in your small garden, look for compact varieties and vining crops that you can grow vertically on support structures. 

You can also opt for pole beans instead of bush beans. Vining cucumbers can also take up less space despite their nature. Growing your vegetables vertically won’t only save space but will also create structure and visual interest.

Grow High-Value Crops Vertically

If you only have a small space to grow in, you want to make sure that the vegetables you plant are of high value. Try growing more expensive crops like heirloom tomatoes or leafy greens instead of radishes or onions. By doing this, you can fit more plants into the same amount of space and increase your profits.

Make sure you maximize your small space by growing small amounts of different crops that offer big rewards like salad leaves, leafy greens, fresh herbs, and chili plants. Give your crops some space to enable them to get high density by using a high nutrient moisture-retentive soil mixture. 

Make sure that you choose vegetables that are suitable for your climate and grow well in containers. You can use different pots such as rectangular plastic tubs, large buckets, or circular half barrels to place plants on top of each other and maximize space and yield. 

Choose compact varieties that are suitable for growing this way and arrange them to maximize your visual impact. You can also use hanging baskets to catch that valuable sunlight.

Position Your Small Vegetable Garden Near the Kitchen

It is important to consider the best place to put your small vegetable garden. The most convenient location for harvesting would be near the kitchen entrance, so you don’t have to carry them far when it’s time to store them in the fridge. Select vegetables suitable for growing indoors, such as cherry tomatoes and baby carrots, which can fit nicely in small spaces.

Image credit: https://st.hzcdn.com/

Most small vegetable crops are annuals. They have a very short timescale and need to grow rapidly. And to enhance their performance, they need a lot of help and plenty of food to fuel their growing process, and that’s only possible in full sun. This small vegetable garden idea allows you to place your crops near the kitchen for ease of use, and you can also pay close attention to pests and diseases.

Plant Your Vegetables in Pots

To have a successful vegetable patch indoors, you need to install it in containers. There are different kinds of pots that you can use for this purpose, such as flower pots and barrels. You should find a wide variety in your local garden store or supermarket, one that has good drainage holes in the bottom.

Image credit: https://gardenerspath.com/

Organic soil is the best option because regular soil or compost can get dirty quickly. If you use a regular potting mix, your containers will need to be turned over regularly so that all of the dirt is mixed up with the new material being added each time. 

Use tubs, pots, hanging baskets, and troughs to grow vegetables and herbs. Potted edibles and other container gardening ideas are convenient for small vegetable gardens using a patio and a court space. You can use your large container to plant flowers and a range of crops, including salad leaves and chilies, which are decorative and practical.

Regular harvesting of your plant leaves, such as lettuce and chard, will help prevent crowding. Both your crops and containers should be compatible with the growth of the plants.

Consider Companion Planting

There are some vegetables that work well together. For instance, basil can help control tomato plant pests and fertilize with its nitrogen content. Dill attracts the predators of aphids, ladybirds, and hoverflies to your small garden. 

Companion touted plants not only prevent pest infestation but also help conserve space. Shade-loving flowers and plants can also benefit when planted next to taller plants. Other leafy greens and basil hate hot afternoons and will thrive when grown next to tomatoes.

Lettuce will also keep on producing all summer when taller plants shade them. You can plant early harvested vegetables such as spinach, radishes, and peas with slow-growing crops such as broccoli, root vegetables, and peppers.

Build a Raised Bed Vegetable Garden

Raised beds are a very popular way of growing edibles in a small vegetable garden. You can also design your raised beds using various companion planting techniques. 

Image credit: https://site.extension.uga.edu/

Plant garlic, leeks, and onions together with beans snap peas, and corn for a high-yielding low maintenance combo of vegetables. You can use brick, wood, and sleepers to frame your bed. Make sure you fill your beds with good quality soil and then add your vegetables or fruits.

Plant a Small Vegetable Garden amongst Flowers

Growing vegetables in a small vegetable garden require creative thinking. If you don’t have much room for a full-sized vegetable garden, grow veggies among flowers. Vegetable and fruit plants can blend attractively beside other plants. Some flower bed winners would do well with most vegetables like carrots, spinach, tomatoes, and beans. 

Transplant your young seedlings of cauliflowers into the bed prepared to plant flowers. Once they mature, the heads of the cauliflower are protected from sunlight due to the foliage of the surrounding flowers. With its pretty daisy-like flower blooms, this plant will shade your vegetables very well, which makes it perfect for carrots and spinach.

Grow Vegetables in Window Boxes

You can also grow vegetables in window boxes that you’ve hung near your windows. Vegetables like lettuce, peas, and beans will yield a bountiful harvest provided they get enough sunlight and water. Tomatoes and peppers do well when placed next to the kitchen window for this reason; you’ll always see them when inside the house and be reminded to care for them.

If you grow vegetables in boxes, you will find that they need more frequent watering than vegetables planted outside the house. The reason for this is that soil in boxes heats up faster and dries out quicker. You can try covering the bottom of your window box with enough bags of brown peat moss to allow the soil in your box to retain more moisture. 

An advantage of growing vegetables in boxes is that you can move them around, placing them where they will get full sun and thus ripen faster. A disadvantage of raising your vegetables indoors is that they produce a smaller yield than those grown outside the house. For this reason, it is best to start your plants in the house and transplant them outdoors once they are large enough.

Succession Planting

Succession planting is useful for any planting technique, whether it is a large or small vegetable garden. But it is most valuable when you have limited garden space. It means reseeding quick-growing garden crops from two to three weeks during the growing season. It’s useful for plants such as zucchini, beans, and lettuce.

Small-Space Vegetable that Grows and Produce Well

Pole Beans and Peas

Start your peas on trellis in early spring, and they’ll provide you with fresh peas as well as a nice crop of fertilizer for early-season flowers and vegetables. In the fall, plant your pole beans in large clumps or groups instead of rows. This will allow them to take advantage of any heat retained from the summer; they will produce a crop before the cold weather sets in again.

Tomatoes

Tomatoes are very popular in gardens, but they require a lot of room that the average gardener may not have. Cherry tomatoes are often grown on plants that can be planted alongside regular vegetable crops. Smaller varieties work very well for container gardening; some good choices are determinate tomatoes, beefsteak, and green tomatoes. Make sure you learn how to prune tomatoes for better yields.

Salad Greens

These are among the easiest vegetables to grow. You can even grow them indoors in your kitchen. The key is finding a good fertilizer that will not be too strong for your baby greens and giving them enough nutrition to mature into full-size heads of lettuce, spinach, or other salad crops.

FAQs on Vegetable Gardening in a Small Space

What kinds of vegetables can be grown indoors?

Certain kinds can be grown indoors, such as carrots and tomatoes, though you should first research to see if they will grow well in a container. Also, mint is easy to grow and can help cleanse any containers you use for your indoor garden.

What do you need to learn before starting a vegetable garden?

You should investigate the needs and requirements of your chosen veggies and decide on your space and what equipment you need beforehand.

How much water is required per day for growing vegetables in pots?

Vegetables grown in pots will require more frequent watering than those grown in the ground. Be prepared to water your plants at least twice a day if they are grown in pots, and make sure you allow them to drain.

Final Thought on Small Space Vegetable Garden

Growing vegetables in a small space is possible, but you need to be more creative than planting in a large yard. If you’re growing your vegetables, it is important that you know what works best for the type of vegetables that you want to grow and pay attention to their sunlight and water needs. Your site location should also have adequate sunlight, access to water sources, and has rich, fertile soil.

 

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